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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.